A bit more

Some photographs below which might give a wee bit more of the feeling of how big those icebergs and seals were.

This is a story that has nothing to do with the pictures but I like it.    We were looking at the Chilean base and then the Argentinian and I asked Henck if they socialized much.  He told us how he spotted one of the Chilean boats and wanted to get an update on the weather so he hailed them on the ship radio.  There was no reply and as they were already quite close to them they hailed them again and then just started trying to attract their attention by using the ships horn and calling.  One of the sailors quickly waved over and gave a shush sign and indicated that they couldn’t answer at that time.   He pointed over to an iceberg they seemed to be peering at.

Henck’s boat then rounded the iceberg and realized that the Chilean boat was trying to spy on the Argentineans boat on the other side.  Ahh the sophistication of diplomacy and politics.


wave icebergG

High waves on the Drake passage.


DSC_1515DSC_1539DSC_1848DSC_1455DSC_1458Pat the explorer

The Characters and some more pics

DSC_1700.JPGPriscilla who is a Radio Presenter and known throughout Malaysia, provided the background music to add ambiance when we sailed through the ice and at night when we were relaxing after all the exertions and then again at night when anyone was partying.  She had no sailing experience but ever so quietly and graciously got sick in her little bowl without complaining.  At one stage when Charlie was warning everyone that the boat was about to tack and would lean on the opposite side, Priscilla thought that the boat was about to attack.  She wondered what we were going to attack but then went back to sleep.  DSC_1600 (2)Flossie?  well she didn’t say much but she was great on the barbecue. Salted naturally by the sea.


Chris’s first job was a trapeze artist, then on to be a diving instructor and now was a paramedic.  He brought the hrydophone on board and we would sit some evenings and listen to the leopard seals calling to each other. We did however mix up the sound of the pump of running water for a strange creature we couldn’t identify.  When called upon to charm the girls of the British Base to get us on early in the morning he impressed us all and would come out with great  one liners.  Otherwise he was happiest on deck helping Henck.


Henck was so revered by us all we all thought that the rain and snow just landed around him.  He never wore gloves.  The one photograph and image we all missed was the time  he was pushing the dingy off the shore and a rogue wave completely covered him up    to the neck.  But the cigarillo stayed in his mouth.  You’d see that in a Clint Eastwood film and just think YEA!!  He’s also one of the best read persons I’ve ever met, multi lingual and learned his English from the BBC.  HE spoke perfect received pronouncation.

More details to follow


Some Pics

(uncertain of cordinates as Log book is packed away and in the hold of the plane.   Just accept that we are further north but still pretty damn South! and our log of the trip is at least 1,300 knots.)
DSC_1906 (2).JPG

We left the Horn to beautiful scenes of land, Albatross, Skua and the occasional pod of black and white dolphins.   It’s crazy.  All the time I have been saying that its not really possible to capture the beauty of the albatross in a picture because you can’t scale it to perspective and you can’t see the balletic movements. But still we try and try. Do you know that the Albatross mates for life?  If one dies it’s the end of the line.  They hunt for food as far as Beunos Aries while the other sits on the nest.  Henck explained how sometimes the bird may get caught on a fishing line and subsequent scenes of skeletons on the nest as the bird sits in wait for the partner to return.   So sad.

We moored in Peurto Torres, A small settlement with only 16 families in it.  They are navy and army and only stay there for a limited time.  We were looking for directions to walk to the adjacent bay and one young boy offered to take us.  He led us through mud and brambles, up a high hill and down the other side.  I felt at one stage he was working with the ‘Wicked Witch of the woods and going to lead us to her house.  He then proudly showed us the water tank and how it was set up.  The power plant was beside it, all looking very new.  We admired it and nodded “SI Si.  But where is the bay?.”  It took some confusion and translation acting out the sea and sand and then he realized that he had misunderstood the orginal request   Back through brambles, mud, bogs etc etc and then we started over again.  I think with all this walking we should be able to crack walnuts with our thighs soon.  We reached the beach , but too cold to swim!

DSC_1736 (2)
No Wifi in Peurto Torres.  I should make a note here that apart from these blogs going out via satellite, no one had WIFI except for a brief moment in the Chilean Base, Vilda where they told us we could use it for free.  Luckily we had brought our phones  .. Well almost everyone.  Max hadn’t and was devastated.  He had broken up with his girlfriend/ex girlfriend and I believe there may have been more to say to each other. .. There was hope of a reconciliation. From there on in he was trying to get WIFI at all the bases but to no avail.
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Now,  remember Cape Horn where we could only get fridge magnets for souveniors?  Max said “Fridge magnet?  What do I want with a fridge magnet? My ex Girlfriend has all the furniture . I don’t have a fridge.’   ‘I would have to buy a $600 fridge for a $2 magnet’. (Reader try to put on an depressed italian accent on this).
When we arrived in Peurto Williams there was WIFI.   Well  VERY weak Wifi. It would show the sign connecting for about ten minutes and then crash.  We were all sitting around frustrated, knowing that by all of us increasing the demand it was lessening the signal.  We would give up in despair and then someone would give a cry that they were in and back we would go to try again.  Max saw that he had recieved an email from his ex girlfriend but the wifi crashed before he could download it.  Once again despair and he would give up until there as a flicker of a signal and the hope to read the e mail returned.   It reminded me of a John Cleese movie ‘Clockwise’, where he is trying to get to a lecture and has numerous obstacles.  At one stage he sits up and says.  “The despair is easy.  I can cope with despair.  It’s the HOPE thats killing me.”   That just about summed up Max that day.   Later he got reading the e mail and she has given him good wishes. ” Now I may get my fridge back but I have no fridge magnet.  I need to return to get the fridge magnet”
That night we had a feast to try to eat and drink anything that was left on the boat.  The guitar came out, Charlie brought out the tambourine and we tried to sing every song that hadn’t been sung.  Everyone either sang a song from their country, recited a poem, or danced a dance…  or all three.  It sounded wonderful ,  or so I thought until Laurent played the video the next day.  One of those magic nights.
I’m just adding a couple of photo’s. Pat particularly wants the photo showing the steepness of the mountain climb we did where the snow shoes were alternately used as poles and then shoes.  There is also the rushing river we waded across but I’ll add that one later.   There are more stories including some on how we managed to get on with each other.DSC_2405 (2)
The other thing of note is that when we returned, we found out that most of the cruise ships had to turn north before Part Lockroy (Which we had manmaged to get to ) because of all the ice being blown in. Also they were unable to land in many places because of the weather.  There were only three sail boats in the Antartic at this time.   ONe was filled with a group of mountain climbers and the captain told Henck that she (Yes SHE!) was going stir crazy because they had been out for three weeks and there had been no climbing due to the heavy wind.  The other boat ran aground and had to have a cruise ship rescue them and then there was ‘Sarah’ in Hencks capable hands.  I can’t praise that man high enough.
BTW there may be an increase in grammaatcial and spelling mistakes as I no longer have Laurent hanging over my shoulder as I write and Dervla doing the final edit.  Thanks to both.


Rounding Cape Horn.

55 deg 57′ 09″ S
67deg 13 ‘ 02″ W

log 1503
19 Dec 2015
We left Melchior Island in a beautiful sunrise.  Then the three and a half
day trip across the dreaded Drake passage to Cape Horn.  It started with
ice watch at 3 am. and every five hours we were on for two hours. Dodging ice bergs 60 meters high and  200 meters wide.  Think of a sky scaper that stretches the length of a train.

Again the cold was sucking all the energy out of us as we watched ice bergs and growlers pass by through the grey skies.

Reader I want to remind you that the boat is only 54 ft and contains 9
hefty adults ..the quarters are tight.  One minute you are on ice watch with no land around and then you braced on the toilet trying to hold on and pull up your trousers at the same time.  There were certain rules introduced for the guys. Consider the difficulty of holding on to your balance and your bits at the same time.
THe guys were allowed to stand up for their rights but they had to sit down for anything else. There was also the fear of flying out of the loo mid stream.

When off ice watch, time was spent either horizontal in your none to
clean bunk or in the saloon playing cheat and various other card and mind games.
The challenge was not only the cold and adapting to constant movement but also not to get on each others nerves which thankfully we didn’t. Actually as I am writing this it raised a discussion about how we have learned to adapt and let things go.

Last night we had a presentation of our best 20 Photos.  Can you imagine
these photographers are all very serious and the results were terrific.  One was more atmospheric, the other into nature,  one into abstract, it was like walking into a national Geographic symposium.. Oh and Pat and I.  But in fairness and far be it from me to boast but I think we did capture a couple of wonderful pictures.

Getting up this morning it was a 45 degree angle to get out of bed, crawl
to the saloon and try to eat.  Charlie in the meantime managed to make soup.  I have to admit most of the day was to crawl out to eat and then back to bed until about 3pm when we started rounding Cape Horn.  The albatrosses teased us by flying up and disappearing as soon as you focused the camera at them.

To the non sailors I should explain that the Drake passage is the roughest
sea in the world to sail. Cape Horn is where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans
meet, the turbulence around the shelf creates treacherous seas with often fatal consequences.  Thousands of sailors have died rounding Cape Horn.

We were lucky at least on this day.  We managed a difficult landing on slippery stones and having the feeling of constant movement in our ears from the past three days hard sailing.  The wind was pounding as we climbed to the top.

There was a little bit of disappointment that the only souvenir we could get was a 2 dollar fridge magnet.  Max said he wasn’t going to go out and buy a 600 dollar fridge for it.

We weighed the anchor and set off for the most beautiful hidden cove
‘Wollaston’ surrounded by trees, cascading waterfalls,towering mountains soaring albatross and the delicious smell of land.  We even had a pod of black and white dolphins chasing us. (Commerson’s Dolphins)  Henk celebrated Sarah’s  100th crossing of the drake.  Considering that he has done it 100 times and he thought that this one was a rough one.  I hope you are impressed!
We are now headed for the southern most town in the world, Puerto Toro.
(They better have more than fridge magnets for souveniors)

Puerto Toro

Cape Horn next….

60 deg 52′ 72″ S
66 deg 42 ‘ 65″ W

Log 1175 knots

When I first mentioned to Pat that it was my dream to go to the Antarctic
he asked about the possibility of being locked into ice.  I dismissed that
concern saying that that was poor planning.  (It should be noted that
following that comment a cruising ship got stuck in ice and had to be rescued).
Well we sailed away from Port Lockroy with our souveniors and the boys all talking about Laura the girl from Twickenham.  It was a beautiful calm day. However, it had to be noted that the wind had blown in a lot of ice in our path and Henk observed that all the cruise ships were changing their paths becasue of this.  There wasn’t a great deal we could do but plod on and on and on. Soon we were surrouded by ice.  Every couple of hours Charlie would have to climb the mast to see which the best path was.  At one stage the engine stopped.  We all held our breath when Henk came down with the screw driver and climbed back into the hull to work on the engine.  He was lowering the idle power of the RPM of the engine because of the weight of the ice surrounding.  BIG relief all round.

We were going at about one mile an hour.  After about five hours the wind
shifted and the ice spread out just like an accordion. and we were back to
motoring full strength again.  until Bammm once again another two mile
expansion of ice.  Lots of seals dozing on the floes. Once we got through
that we were welcomed by a whales feeding.  Beautiful sight.

We anchored in Melchoir Island and after a terrific barbecue we climbed
the mountain to view the sunset/ sunrise.  Stunning colours and views.
Priscilla and Charlie were in the boat when a huge chunk of ice calved off
the cliff.  Not in time to get the camera. The following day we went out
whale watching and after about an hour and a half of nothing we decided to stop the engine to see if we could hear anything with the engines off.
Sure enough.  Within two minutes we heard a number of blows and could see about seven whales feeding.  We slowly approached and it was fantastic.
They were bubble feeding. Blowing and then you would see these huge mouths coming out of the water ever so slowly and gradually they would dive showing their humps and occasionally on bigger dives the tail would wave and slide back in.  SOme were in pairs one adult and a calf and one in particular had a much lower grumblier blow than the others  I wonder if
that was the only male and the others were mothers and their calves.  It
was terrific to watch and listen to, although Laurent laughed at my iphone
out while everyone else had these fancy cameras.  think I got a couple of
good videos which I will put up later with all the other photographs.

In the evening after our last anchorage barbecue we got our snow shoes on
to climb the last summit.  BTW I’ve been asked how Pat is enjoying it.  As
you can imagine he is up for everything,,, well he drew a line at the swim
but so did more than half of the others. in his words the trip has been
‘amazing and so different than any other place in the world.’  not bad for
such a well traveled man.

We are now headed back for the Drake passage.  We have had the first few
hours of ice watch with Bergs as high as aircraft carriers (Or three
story buildings)  they all have little growlers around them with very hard
ice.  I dont know how Charlie manages it but he makes an excellent meal
every night even when we are sailing along.  Better than I could ever do
but I guess thats not really the highest accolade he would aspire to .
just as I write this Charlie has cut fresh melon and pineapple for all of
Next  We will be going via Cape Horn.  WHEEE! 0

Cape Horn

From benign to lethal!

14 Dec 2015

64 deg 46′ 71″S
63 deg 23 ‘ 53″ W

Log 871 knots

It seems that it is still early Spring here rather than the expected hot
Summmer.  There has been some tough sailing and blocked in anchorages.  A number of the cruise ships were unable to go as far south as they intended.

We had intended to climb a few more peaks but it has been
incredibly windy.  On one sail it was 35-40 wind with gusts up to 54
knots. Henk was heard to say  Its gone from benign to Lethal!
There are still many beautiful place to see and photograph.  There have
been whale spottings and in one cove we saw three whales circling around.
On our way to the British base at Port Lockroy the National Geographic
Explorer came up behind and asked us if we would like to sail in their
wake as they break the ice.  Big waves and salutes as they passed us.  The
going through ice is torturous.  It probably saved us about two hours to
go through that particular half mile of ice.  This morning we weren’t so
lucky.  With Laurent climbing the mast every now and then and CHarlie at
the bow pointing possible gaps to Henk we had to push our way through
another half mile of ice brought in from the tide.  Very quiet while and a
bit tense Like ants pushing against the tide.  I’m not sure of the size of
the area but it took about 500 rosaries.

The National Geographic Explorer sure does look fancy and Laura ( from the British base camp )told me how two of them go onto the boats to give a
talk.  One talks while the other has a shower. FOur girls and  no shower
on the base!! SHe desribed the library with panoramic views HOWEVER when anyone from these boats goes ashore they are very limited to where they goand the length of time they can spend ashore.
The British base at Port Lockroy is charming. The previous year Laurent
said they didnt get ashore so this year we were determined to get there
before the tides washed in too much ice.  Intially Henk had been talking
to them the night before and astutely enough Henk had the feeling that we were being pushed back again.  He asked Chris our chirpy Brit aboard to use his charm.  We all agreed the best offensive would be British
patriotism rather than Charlies Brazialian charm or Massimo’s seductive
persuasion.  Lads!  you should have heard Chris this morning chatting away with the girl and then apologetically asking if there is any chance in
popping over soon as we are in a bit of a rush.  He won her over.  Later
on the camp Charlie managed to charm some herbal tea from them.
It is run by the British Antarctic Heritage fund.  THey have kept the
place just like it was in 1922 complete with pictures of scantily dressed
girls like Diana Dorseand Ava Gardner.  I assume those pictures were done
in the 50s.  A cook book with recipes like Seals liver omlete and the
delicacy of seal brain and the importance of cleaning out the clots first.
The four girls running it were a delight.  They will be on the camp for
four months. Laura and Adele told me it was working so far although
admittedly its only been three  weeks so far.

MOre of the characters on the boat are emerging.  Priscilla told us her
harrowing tale of how she survived the tsuanami. SHe could relive each
second of being pulled through the wave.  It was absolutely riveting.

Engine trouble!

64 ° 54′ 19″S
62 ° 51 ‘ 88″ W

Log 791knots
13 Dec 2015

You know when you are watching a film and everything is happy and warm and you know that there is going to be catastrophe just around the corner? We were invited to the Chilean base.  64 ° 49S  62° 51 W.  It was
charming. There are 14 persons.  One female nurse, the first woman on the camp ever.  The two who spoke the best English were there to greet us at the dock. One Navy and one air force.  They showed us the only Albino
penguin.  The smell was overpowering  and then they took us inside  Warm, pleasant smelling with the Christmas tree they had just erected that day. They put on a spread for us,on a red table cloth was whiskey sour, coke, tea and coffee with a variety of biscuits.  They told us that we were the first visitors.

We also had the opportunity to go on WIFI and I got ‘whats
apping’ my sisters  .  GREAT feeling.  They all came in at different
times to say hello and told us how it was at camp.  I got using a toilet
that flushed!  and while I was as on the toilet  I looked at the shower
and wondered if I’d be missed for 30 minutes  or if anyone would notice.
We even got some souvenirs.

When we were returning to the boat I noticed how the ice had built up
while we were on land.  We couldn’t get into the boat from our usual spot.
As always when we are pushing through the ice flow there is silence while
Henk concentrates and you can hear the engine grinding.  This time there
was a different tone to the grind.  The prop wasn’t turning.  On
investigation the coupling between the drive shaft and the prop was loose.
..This is serious.  It was a very subdued two hours while I think each
one of us was wondering if we all knew how potentially bad this was.  All
you could hear was Henk below in the keel banging occasionally.  Very
cramped conditions.  Having to unscrew bolts, replace, try , re unscrew.
Priscilla just heard Henk mumble  ‘I’m not a happy man’. My cabin was
freezing as if I had to be reminded how bad this could get.  Then Max
asked what was wrong with the flush of the head.  Oh no.  This could one
of two things. Either there was a block of ice covering the effluent sea
cock from the outside or.. the sea cock had got frozen inside.  I prayed
it was the former and indeed within 30 minutes the head was flushing
I guess you can figure from the fact that I’m writing this that eventually
the engine fired off and we moved.  So much relief that we didn’t dare
clap or exclaim.  Later that evening Henk admitted that he was concerned.

We saw a seal which showed multiple deep open wounds of an attack lying on an ice floe.  Possibly the result of an attack of a hungry orca.  There
is nothing we can do but it really hits home the rawness of nature.
This morning it’s been too windy to climb a peak so we have motored on.
Saw two seals and what looked like a baby seal with them.  … The circle
of life.
A zodiac full of people came by and and numerous kayaks.  They all seemed surprised to see us and were taking photos. We are all thinking how wonderful it is that we can get into the small anchorages and having a
small group as  there is so much more flexibility ,  they are probably
feeling very sorry for us thinking that we all have to share the same
toilet..  Ah the diversity of life.

Laurent asked Pat if he was cold  and he answered he was too numb to feel
the cold. Priscilla is finding all sorts of places for the toe warmers
they are currently around her neck.

A Polar swim on Cuverville Island

62°31’69.00″W    Cuverville Island, Antarctica

Positions to 11 Dec
This is certainly not a journey for the faint hearted and I think we have
all had our moments of weakness.  Mine was climbing up the summit of
Cuverville. The expedition leader F.M.G  ( this name is abbreviated from
the M G is mountain goat so you can guess what the rest is )  was tripping
up ahead and when we reached the top we were discussing how ‘Failing is
not Bailing” and that success should not be defined as reaching the top for
a few brief minutes but the getting there. It was tough climbing up
through the soft snow on snow shoes.  The ice had got into my boots and my feet were slowly freezing…. no not slowly,  rapidly freezing.  It’s
also that every time you get wet you know that it will take two days to
dry out the clothes if you’re lucky!
Its an unusual group of people who are prepared to go through a lot of
discomfort for that moment of stunning natural beauty.  Charlie (the first
mate in flip flops) once hid for two hours in a hole that he couldn’t move
in to stay in Patagonia National park to watch the sunrise and calving of
the glacier.  Last night we had a number of ‘calving episodes’  The
thunder rolls and ice crashes down and mini tsunami waves roll.

BTW Charlie has now succumbed to sneakers but he is still wearing them like flip flops and has a hole at the heel of one of his two socks!  Photos to
follow. And speaking of photos to follow  we had our Polar Swim.  There was a brief window of opportunity when the sun shone. This is not a Swedish sauna type dive in to a frozen lake and then a long sauna and shower afterwards, but boy was it invigorating.  We got photos of us drying in the sun while the penguins looked on.    I think we have our cover photo there and guess who is the centrefold?    I just can’t decide whether to photoshop it or  go for authenticity and leave it as it is.  Bearing in mind that we haven’t had a shower for two weeks and there are no razors on board!

We arrived back to the boat where Henk was barbecuing the rest of Flossie, the lamb which has been hanging over the stern of the boat getting salted  and tenderized.  Delicious!  Later when we came back from climbing around the penguins Henk chopped off some of the bubbly ice and a few gin and tonics were downed…. Not quite like the gin and tonics in the sailing club!

I’m not sure that we brought enough socks with us.  You wear
them three at a time and each time we go out there’s always that little
bit of ice that gets into your boots and it takes two days to dry them out
properly. I hope Bob and Barbara don’t mind me using their hot tub when I get back on Christmas day while they’re eating their Christmas dinner.
It’s a lot colder this year, chicks haven’t hatched yet and I just heard
Henk say to Laurent.  “I’m not so sure about our progress.  A couple of
the cruise ships have not been able to get into anchorages because of the
ice blocking them out.  I can’t remember if I wrote about the earlier
anchorage where we ‘just ‘ edged out and the big ship was pacing along the edges waiting for the ice breaker to come along.  Henk just added that he was worried about our water tanks icing up.
We managed to dropped into a Chilean base camp.  To quote Max  (and you
have to put on a slow drawling Italian accent)  “Basically it is two houses
surrounded by penguin shit.” and believe me penguin shit does not smell

But more of that in the next blog.

40 knot winds, sleet and rough seas!

Todays coordinates  64 degrees  ( i cant find the wee o ) 41′ 26″ S
62 degrees 38′ 04″

8 Dec 2015a

We had what Henk  called a ‘Shackelton journey’ to the next anchor
18 hours of sleet, rough seas and high winds up to 40 knots.  We were all
on ice watch for two hours  at a time. One watch had the fright of their
lives as a humpbacked whale surfaced right beside the boat.  BUT when we
got up in the morning I can’t describe how beautiful and surreal it was.
Imagine stepping into a black and white picture with shots of  blue which
are the ice bergs. All sorts of texture some of the ice is like marble while
other bits are like crumbly icing on a cake.

Jane 8 dec 2015

Hopefully thenext time  I write it will be on another computer and will be


Livingstone Island and beyond!

We boarded on Monday and immediately there was a storm warning .No ships allowed out of port! At 4 am Henk started the engine and motored out to Beagle Channel. To the sailors reading this I’m sure you know that
delicious moment when the sails are raised and set and fenders taken in
and birds are following you out on a new adventure. I love that time but
unfortunately I had to go down below to have a conversation with God on
the great white telephone.

Drakes passage was horrendous.

With the exception of Charlie, (First mate who, incidentally wears flip flops or to the Americans that’s thongss , throughout the passage.) the Captain and Pat, everyone was sick.  Its like being in a tumble dyer with the setting at freezing. I was beginning to wonder if I really liked sailing
at all. High winds of 40+ knots  and rolling sea with 20+ ft waves.  Maybe
it was a mad idea.  … and then we started on ICE watch.

Sailing by these enormous crystal blue ice bergs looking out for growlers,
the beauty and challenge of it is too difficult to explain. We spotted
whales and ten the cutest looking penguins jumping around the ocean.
Priscila brought up her iPod with the coolest music (pink Matini and que
serra serra ) to watch the  bergs  go by. I’m not so sure how Max and
Doug got us through their watch because Doug was seeing  buildings and red lights and everything except growlers!
We stopped at Livngstone Island. Packed with Penguins and Elephant Seals.
I was wearing my very smart Russian Hat some of you have seen and Max… the Italian who has a two gun holster for his cameras  and incidentally didn’t take the labels off his foul weather gear until the first day landing  had the nerve to ASK ME IF I was going to the opera!

I watched the 600+ lb seals and could identify with the difficulty of getting around as I was in my sleeping bag later that night.

We then raised the anchor and went off to Deception Island. Once again thousands of chin strapped penguins. The Mummy ( or Daddy) comes back from the sea and they bicker and yell at each other and the returning penguin dances around for a bit and then the nesting one reluctantly gets up to let the other sit on the egg.
The landing of the tender on the island was rather rough so when Henk the captain pushed us off, the water soaked him right up to the chest  BUT he kept the cigar in his mouth throughout. This is the coolest man you’d ever meet south of the equator!
Last night was probably one of the most memorable I have had. We anchored in the middle of a vast sea of ice . I have the photograph of the anchor nicely resting on top of the ice.  The photos will follow as soon as I
can up load them.
Chris brought out his toy the hydrophone. Its a microphone you drop down the side of the boat. We could hear leopard seals calling to each other.
Charlie made beef strogonoff, his mothers recipe, and at the end of that we took out the guitar.  There was also a bit of dancing on deck. everyone
was back on form.  Incidentally we have a carcass of lamb  attached to the
transom of the boat getting salted and ready to eat in a couple of days
Yup it’s been every emotion under the sun so far and I’m lovin it
Jane XX

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