August 6 Miles 1800+. Weather from hellish to heavenly.
Once we got a decent weather report we headed out from Camden. We expected light winds and had just glanced over Chris Parker’s comment about fog. I thought the first picture I took of ‘Bluenose’ leaving the harbour was probably the best I was going to get because by now I had accepted that it would be foggy for the rest of our time in Nova Scotia.
There were one or two good images as we left Camden. I thought that was the Mary Day sailing past but there are a number of similar boats going out like her and they are beautiful to see. This lighthouse was miles off shore. I can’t think how it must be for the lighthouse keepers. I saw the strangest sight of the moon turning very red as it set. The pictures don’t really do it justice.
Around midnight on Wed night the fog set in. It is bone cold and feels like a monster of something unearthly is around. Your enveloped in cold wet moisture. (excuse the English but that’s the only way I can describe it).
The sun was making a miserable attempt at making a rainbow (Above ) and the sunsets were utterly boring. No dolphins no jumping fish but there was something beautiful about the way the gulls glided by so swiftly but of course that’s like taking a picture of an albatross in flight.
Also In Canada they still have Fog horns. Coincidently Fiona (sister) sent a podcast about the loss of foghorns in the UK. I LOVE the sound of them. I listened to the podcast as we sailed through the fog. Fortunately by Thursday night we had remembered the little heater we bought.
It was thick thick fog as we came into dock. There was only about a boat lengths vision around. I don’t know what we would have done if we hadn’t AIS (that tells you if there is a boat near). When we arrived I wasn’t absolutely sure if we could dock on this wharf. There was only one cleat but we made it into the museum to contact customs and they allowed us to stay there until our dock was available. We were told it was particularly busy because of the music festival that is going on. We wandered around the museum, which was recommended by Patrick Rausch and he was so right. I felt a mixture of awe (at the boats) interest (at the aquarium and natural history) to intrigue at the development of all things maritime like oil skins etc and historical images and finally to complete sadness when they described the hard life and tragedy of fishing in the past. (Well its still hard).
When we came out the fog had completely lifted and everything was beautiful. Our dock still wasn’t ready so we left the boat on the wharf and went wandering.
Part of the museum was entry to an old fishing schooner. The guides were all old fishermen and not only knowledgable but a delight. There was a free concert on the park and the music was a beautiful mixture of Irish Folk and Breton with a plaintive sea sound.
I saw a unique tour bus called Seaweed tours and we decided that we should get a tour. The angel was still shining on us as when we turned the corner she was parked. Unfortunately she couldn’t take us on a tour this weekend as she was booked to take the musicians around. I was really disappointed as I could see inside that she was a story teller to. She went on to say that she was currently waiting for a musician to come out of the opera house and take her to her cottage and then she would have to return to pick up another musician. I asked her if we could just come along on the bus while she was doing that and she agreed.
Natalie, the musician was delighted as all she wanted to do was drop off her stuff and return to the town. It was a wonderful trip. She told us about the making of the movie Dolores Clayburn (One of my favorite Kathy Bates Steven King Movies). She stopped by one or two of the beauty spots and we even saw Bluenose sailing in her glory.
We returned to town just as I was getting a bit anxious about getting the boat docked for the weekend. When we returned Chris who was finding us a dock was waiting by the boat. As I looked her I wondered aloud if it would be possible to just keep her here on the wharf in the centre of town and Chris said ‘Go in to the museum and ask them”. And so I did and they agreed. Its really lovely watching the tourists walk by and admire her and usually they stay to chat for ‘just enough’.
We met a very entertaining couple at dinner who are moored and although we shared a lot about each other I don’t know their names!
We’ve booked to go to Lunenberg Yacht Club for Sunday night as there is no fuel here and when I asked if they had a restaurant I was informed that Sunday night is Lobster night . Well Well. More to follow.